How long does a block paving driveway last?

Twenty-five years and beyond when the sub-base, edge restraints and jointing are done correctly. The blocks themselves rarely fail — driveways fail because of thin bases, missing edge restraints or standing water.

What is the strongest block paving pattern for a driveway?

45° herringbone. The interlocking pattern resists the twisting forces of braking and steering better than stretcher bond or basketweave, which is why it is the standard specification for vehicle areas.

Do I need planning permission for a block paved driveway?

Not if the surface is permeable, or if surface water is directed to a soakaway or border within your own property. We specify permeable blocks or drainage as part of the design so your drive complies either way.

Why does moss and weed growth appear in the joints?

Weeds in block paving grow from seed and organic debris landing in the joints, not from below. Keeping joints full of kiln-dried sand, clearing leaves and occasionally using a polymeric joint sand keeps it under control.

Can you repair a sunken area of block paving?

Yes, and it is one of the real advantages of the surface. We lift the affected blocks, correct or recompact the base beneath, and relay the same blocks. Done properly the repair is invisible.

Should I seal my block paving?

Sealing is optional. It stabilises joint sand, deepens colour and makes oil marks easier to remove, but it needs redoing every three to five years. We will tell you honestly whether your drive will benefit rather than selling it as standard.

How long does installation take?

A typical Farnborough driveway of 40–60m² takes five to eight working days including excavation, base, drainage and jointing. Larger or heavily sloped sites take longer and we give you a written schedule before we start.

Driveways

Block Paving Driveways in Farnborough

The most versatile driveway surface in Hampshire — laid on a full sub-base, restrained on all four sides and jointed properly so it locks together and stays flat.

Get a free quote 07418 608345

Block paving earns its place on Farnborough driveways because it is strong, endlessly repairable and available in a design language that suits everything from a 1930s semi in Cove to a new build off the Farnborough Road. It also punishes bad groundwork faster than any other surface, which is why our block paving starts a long way below the blocks.

Why block paving still wins

A block paved driveway is a flexible pavement: hundreds of small units resting on sand over a compacted base, transferring load sideways as well as down. That is why it copes with a heavy vehicle turning on it, and why a single damaged area can be lifted and relaid invisibly instead of patched.

It is also the only surface where design really opens up. Pattern, colour, border, and a change of block at the threshold let you draw the eye and make a narrow Farnborough frontage feel considered rather than just paved.

Individually liftable — repairs and service trenches leave no scar
Very high load capacity when laid on a correct sub-base
Permeable options available that avoid planning consent
Design freedom: pattern, colour, borders and inlays

Block paving driveway laid in Farnborough by Farnborough Driveways & Patios

Block types and colours

Concrete block pavers are the workhorse: consistent, economical and available in every colour from charcoal to brindle. Clay pavers cost more but hold their colour permanently and weather beautifully against period brickwork — worth the premium on a Georgian frontage in Farnham or an older street near North Camp.

Colour choice is best made outdoors, wet and dry, against your brick and roof. Charcoal reads modern and hides tyre marks; brindle and burnt-ochre blends flatter red brick; buff and silver-grey suit render and flint.

Patterns and borders

The pattern is a structural decision as much as an aesthetic one. Herringbone at 45° or 90° interlocks under braking and turning loads, which is why it is the standard for driveways. Stretcher bond and basketweave belong on paths and patios where traffic is lighter.

45° herringbone — strongest interlock, best for turning traffic, more cutting
90° herringbone — strong, cleaner run against a straight house line
Stretcher bond — simple and calm, better on paths than under cars
Soldier or double-soldier border — frames the drive and takes all the cuts
Contrasting kerb or setts course — defines edges, gates and thresholds

Excavation, sub-base and drainage

We excavate to a minimum of 250mm for a domestic drive, deeper where the ground is soft or where a van or motorhome will be parked. A geotextile membrane separates subsoil from sub-base, then 150–200mm of MOT Type 1 is laid and compacted in layers.

Edge restraints are concreted in before any blocks go down. Without a haunched edge the whole pavement creeps outward and the joints open — the single most common failure we are called out to fix in Farnborough.

Falls are set at roughly 1:80 away from the house. Where water cannot run to a soft area within your boundary, we install a linear channel drain to a soakaway, or specify permeable blocks with an open-graded sub-base so the drive drains through itself. Both satisfy the rules on front garden surfacing without needing planning consent.

Laying, jointing and finishing

Blocks are laid on 30–40mm of screeded sharp sand, always working off laid blocks so the bedding stays undisturbed. Cuts are made with a bench saw rather than a hand splitter, tight to borders and manhole frames.

The drive is then vibrated with a plate compactor over a protective mat and jointed with kiln-dried sand, brushed and re-vibrated until every joint is full. Full joints are what make the pavement interlock. Where a client wants minimal maintenance, we can finish with a polymeric jointing sand instead to slow weed growth and stop wash-out.

Maintenance, repairs and lifespan

A properly built block paved driveway should give 25 years or more. Keep the joints topped up with kiln-dried sand every couple of years, clear leaves in autumn, and wash it down rather than blasting it — an aggressive pressure washer strips joint sand and pits the block face.

When something does go wrong — a sunken area over a badly backfilled trench, a spreading edge, oil-stained blocks — it is almost always repairable. We lift, correct the base and relay the original blocks, which is why block paving ages better than any poured surface.

How we build it

The installation process, step by step.

01
Design and survey
Levels, access, drainage and pattern agreed on site with samples against your brickwork.
02
Excavation
Dig to 250mm+, remove soft spots and cart away all spoil.
03
Sub-base
Membrane, then MOT Type 1 compacted in layers to a true formation.
04
Edge restraints and drainage
Kerbs and borders concreted in; channel drains and soakaways installed.
05
Laying
Screeded sand bed, blocks laid to pattern, saw-cut tight to every edge.
06
Compact and joint
Vibrated, filled with kiln-dried sand, re-vibrated, washed down and walked with you.